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Post by bwarz on Jun 5, 2022 16:26:52 GMT
I'm sorta remembering what I did, the stir straws are longer so you can situate the HSTAB under them easily. I might be recalling the BF109 where the rear-most skin is actually a full wrap and I needed the excess length on the straws to fish them through the holes in the skin...
Don't cut them off until you have everything assembled. I even took small pieces of DTFB and formed a 'tooth' that allowed a taper form the vert to the horizontal and slid nice and snug up under the straw. Then I trim the straw off flush with everything.
Sweet, I am going to start cutting skins after I get the straws and servo rods routed. I kind of took some time off on this to get caught up on the mig. I spent most of the weekend trying to dial in my dart (still something I need to fix on that). I got the V and H stabs mounted. It slid together like butter of course. I made a boo boo and put a little crease in the h stab being a sasquach, but it is right next to the rudder, no one will know. 2022-06-04_11-51-37 by Burkeomatic, on Flickr I've seen some cool liveries for this, and I am not sure what I am going to do yet. While I did find a discount can of silver for $3, I am digging some of the foreign olive drab ones. Specifically the Finnish one. No one knows that those swastikas on there aren't Nazi related..... Honestly, what I am trying to avoid at this point, is cutting and piecing together more plans and skins, but I have ran out of parts....dammit. Better suck it up buttercup. any progress is progress right? Looking good so far! And I really like that color scheme
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Post by Burkeomatic on Jun 12, 2022 3:58:41 GMT
2022-06-11_10-24-42 by Burkeomatic, on Flickr I got the coffee straws put in. now i need to look at the instructions and start cutting skins out. i think i'll get a skin done, and then i'll probably solder up my other receiver and get a flight controller in my night fury and take that out tomorrow.
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Post by Burkeomatic on Jun 15, 2022 3:20:04 GMT
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Post by bwarz on Jun 15, 2022 12:23:11 GMT
lol yea - I planned to rename the skins and apparently forgot.
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Post by Burkeomatic on Jun 20, 2022 21:31:08 GMT
Alright, I glued the bottom part first on the second skin. 20220619_231836 by Burkeomatic, on Flickr Then i glued it to the back. There is one part I didn't cut it straight, and there is a little gap, and another part where the upper fuse of that rear skin bowed out while it was drying. I could have formed the part better, or used hot glue to prevent this. But my hot glue gun is pretty much broken. You warm it up and it just keeps extruding glue. Nothing that can't be fixed in the final finishing with some sanding and some putty. 20220620_155813 by Burkeomatic, on Flickr
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Post by bwarz on Jun 21, 2022 2:50:29 GMT
Alright, I glued the bottom part first on the second skin. 20220619_231836 by Burkeomatic, on Flickr Then i glued it to the back. There is one part I didn't cut it straight, and there is a little gap, and another part where the upper fuse of that rear skin bowed out while it was drying. I could have formed the part better, or used hot glue to prevent this. But my hot glue gun is pretty much broken. You warm it up and it just keeps extruding glue. Nothing that can't be fixed in the final finishing with some sanding and some putty. 20220620_155813 by Burkeomatic, on Flickr looking good so far! I need to find a more accurate way to ensure the skins meet up clean every time. I hope the process didn't cause you too much grief I think it's former C that I'm really interested in - that's the goofy looking one that needs a bit of patience to get just right as it goes from a tall and narrow former to a short and fat former hot glue was a bit of a pain on that one, but with thick-n-quick or gg a bit at a time it might go better??
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Post by Burkeomatic on Jun 21, 2022 3:04:53 GMT
Alright, I glued the bottom part first on the second skin. 20220619_231836 by Burkeomatic, on Flickr Then i glued it to the back. There is one part I didn't cut it straight, and there is a little gap, and another part where the upper fuse of that rear skin bowed out while it was drying. I could have formed the part better, or used hot glue to prevent this. But my hot glue gun is pretty much broken. You warm it up and it just keeps extruding glue. Nothing that can't be fixed in the final finishing with some sanding and some putty. 20220620_155813 by Burkeomatic, on Flickr looking good so far! I need to find a more accurate way to ensure the skins meet up clean every time. I hope the process didn't cause you too much grief I think it's former C that I'm really interested in - that's the goofy looking one that needs a bit of patience to get just right as it goes from a tall and narrow former to a short and fat former hot glue was a bit of a pain on that one, but with thick-n-quick or gg a bit at a time it might go better?? I'll let you know when i get to it. The things not lining up is my fault. I trimmed a little too much off the back skin and it left a gap. Gluing the bottom perfectly even first, then sliding it back over the former worked great. Of course, that means the skin needs to be the perfect size, which it was.
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Post by Burkeomatic on Jun 23, 2022 4:13:15 GMT
I got skins "d" on now. I accidentally got tape rash on one of them and pulled some paper off. I love repairing planes before I even crash them. I think I will really like this hatch set up. 20220622_223606 by Burkeomatic, on Flickr I am not going to lie, I am getting pretty excited about this. However, I am currently resisting the urge not to make it some sort of diesel/atom punk plane now.
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Post by Burkeomatic on Jun 24, 2022 3:42:37 GMT
bwarz I figured out i think how to work this c skin on. Am I supposed to work it on from the top, then when I get to the bottom trim the excess straight? That is what I am planning.
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Post by bwarz on Jun 27, 2022 2:29:32 GMT
bwarz I figured out i think how to work this c skin on. Am I supposed to work it on from the top, then when I get to the bottom trim the excess straight? That is what I am planning. Sorry for the delay - you are absolutely correct. Work your way down to have one fully glued and one left to go and squish the leftover side onto the other to mark a good cut line.
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Post by Burkeomatic on Jun 27, 2022 2:53:48 GMT
bwarz I figured out i think how to work this c skin on. Am I supposed to work it on from the top, then when I get to the bottom trim the excess straight? That is what I am planning. Sorry for the delay - you are absolutely correct. Work your way down to have one fully glued and one left to go and squish the leftover side onto the other to mark a good cut line. i already did it. i'll snap a pic. How was flitefest? Got pics?
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Post by Burkeomatic on Jul 3, 2022 22:57:40 GMT
bwarz, we are progressing again! I got caught up when my fpv ship got here, and i was printing a plane on the side too. i am about to start the wings, the front skins went on great. i added a little to that front one like your notes said. on the wing, i am considering fiberglassing the spar instead of cutting out wood. any objections? 2022-07-03_05-39-53 by Burkeomatic, on Flickr
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Post by bwarz on Jul 7, 2022 20:26:06 GMT
hey sorry about the delays in response here! On the spar, my first build i think I used popsicle sticks, the second was just some hunks of paint stick or something. I'd think just anything to give it a little more support. I taped the wings together on the bottom with packing tape and unless you're doing inverted aggressive climbs or something I'm sure it;ll be fine (**famous last words...) The fuselage is looking good btw! FF was fun, but as always, I end up watching alot and not taking any pics. I have a few of my 12yr old and his combat plane - a mini scout. He flew in more combats than me! But he was fighting a plane that had a nasty need to climb on throttle and he just had a heck of a time keeping it in the air. So we built a mini scout and it had its own set of challenges. I flew my localfiend mini zero in a few and Saturday morning's combat had it come to the ground in 6 pieces, one being the battery which was never found The weather was hot and humid in the day and cool with a high dewpoint which had everything soaked in the mornings. We packed up Saturday afternoon and left late in the evening as there was a good possibility of nasty Sunday morning weather which ended up not happening anyways.
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Post by bwarz on Jul 9, 2022 4:18:26 GMT
So flying last evening I discovered a deficiency in the design. So in skewering in the power pod, I targeted the skewers so they go through the bottom foam of the power pod (not through the bottom of the sides, actually through the bottom) so the battery can be velcroed right into the power pod - the ESC should mount to the bottom of the power pod as there is an airflow path to cool it too. But.... The power pod has a set of bottom guide in the fuselage core, but not top guides. The skewers in through the bottom of the foam board end up with a bit of slot to them. I'm not sure if its travel damage, hard landings, or just normal flight. But the motor/power pod ended up having enough slop in it to give the pod a degree or two of variable thrust angle (mostly up) which made the flight characteristics, well, interesting. Once I re-skewered it and better secured the motor, it flew better again, although i think it still needs an ever-so-slight bit of down thrust still (very little I'm guessing as it's not terribly annoying now). I should just glue the darned power pod in then I won't need to worry about it anymore I also have 1 oz of wheel weights (thanks to a fellow club member last night) in the bottom of the inside front of the cowl. That landed the CG quite nice with a 2200 3S right to the back of the rear shaft of the motor. That puts the CG right on top (not in front of) the front wing spar. Also, the 2200 3S running a 3536 1050kV motor spinning a 10x7 prop gave me 7 minutes of moderate flight to (don't yell at me, I hope I didn't destroy the battery) a 3% remaining battery (I reset my timer when I was planning on using a bigger battery and oops ran it on the 2200 for testing...) so I'd guess a 5 minute flight time would be safe.
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Post by Burkeomatic on Jul 9, 2022 17:09:33 GMT
So flying last evening I discovered a deficiency in the design. So in skewering in the power pod, I targeted the skewers so they go through the bottom foam of the power pod (not through the bottom of the sides, actually through the bottom) so the battery can be velcroed right into the power pod - the ESC should mount to the bottom of the power pod as there is an airflow path to cool it too. But.... The power pod has a set of bottom guide in the fuselage core, but not top guides. The skewers in through the bottom of the foam board end up with a bit of slot to them. I'm not sure if its travel damage, hard landings, or just normal flight. But the motor/power pod ended up having enough slop in it to give the pod a degree or two of variable thrust angle (mostly up) which made the flight characteristics, well, interesting. Once I re-skewered it and better secured the motor, it flew better again, although i think it still needs an ever-so-slight bit of down thrust still (very little I'm guessing as it's not terribly annoying now). I should just glue the darned power pod in then I won't need to worry about it anymore I also have 1 oz of wheel weights (thanks to a fellow club member last night) in the bottom of the inside front of the cowl. That landed the CG quite nice with a 2200 3S right to the back of the rear shaft of the motor. That puts the CG right on top (not in front of) the front wing spar. Also, the 2200 3S running a 3536 1050kV motor spinning a 10x7 prop gave me 7 minutes of moderate flight to (don't yell at me, I hope I didn't destroy the battery) a 3% remaining battery (I reset my timer when I was planning on using a bigger battery and oops ran it on the 2200 for testing...) so I'd guess a 5 minute flight time would be safe. I have some nylon little washers about the ID of a BBQ skewer I typically glue around the holes where the skewer slides through, that helps keep the hole in the foam from egging out. I honestly hadn't even got to that yet, but thanks for the heads up. I'll try to adjust for downthrust. I honestly had the same problem with the F6F and glued it in. But, I think I will rant a little. In building these intricate planes, I think having a swappable power pod is a design limitation we took from flite test that we impose on ourselves for no good reason. Think about it, how much do you (or most people) swap a single motor and ESC between planes? Not a lot. What about sapping receivers? Typically we just fly planes until they die, then swap the electronics over to others then. Anyone that has more than $40 a month to build a plane probably doesn't swap motors a whole lot. The kids just starting out are probably just happy if they can get a plane in the air for 5 minutes and are probably using something like this. totsrc.com/products/a2212-1400kv-motor-30a-esc-3s-esc-deans-xt60-rc-plane-heli-drone-fpv-wingIt might be an interesting to make a poll on the FT forums to see how many actually use the swappable functionality of their power pods.
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