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Post by Burkeomatic on May 29, 2022 5:10:35 GMT
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Post by bwarz on May 29, 2022 13:21:26 GMT
bwarz They are cut out! 2022-05-28_11-40-52 by Burkeomatic, on Flickr Excellent! it's always a good feeling when all of the formers are cut out. they're always my favorite part of a build... NOT!
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Post by Burkeomatic on May 29, 2022 22:14:18 GMT
bwarz They are cut out! 2022-05-28_11-40-52 by Burkeomatic, on Flickr Excellent! it's always a good feeling when all of the formers are cut out. they're always my favorite part of a build... NOT! Is there anyway you got "E1" and "F1" mixed up on your plans? The piece I am holding in my hand reads "F1" but it looks like it should be "E1" which I am missing, and if it were F, it wouldn't make sense I don't think because it would be wrapping under where the wing would go. 2022-05-29_05-10-48 by Burkeomatic, on Flickr
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Post by bwarz on May 30, 2022 4:29:42 GMT
Is there anyway you got "E1" and "F1" mixed up on your plans? The piece I am holding in my hand reads "F1" but it looks like it should be "E1" which I am missing, and if it were F, it wouldn't make sense I don't think because it would be wrapping under where the wing would go. 2022-05-29_05-10-48 by Burkeomatic, on Flickr Yes you are absolutely right - I have those formers mislabeled. F2 should just be F, F1 (front) is actually E1 (front), and E (rear) should be E2 (rear). Corrected on the plans - thanks! It looks like things rae fitting together otherwise well so far? I hope things continue well with the skins
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Post by bwarz on May 30, 2022 4:34:20 GMT
On another note, the parts labeled L1 FORMER SUPPORT, K (top) and K (bottom) FORMER SUPPORT should be installed on the front of the noted formers. This helps keep the formers from bending forward when installing the skins as they are quite close. It makes it a pain to line up the next skin when the former it's supposed to be on is bent into the previously installed skin
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Post by Burkeomatic on May 30, 2022 5:09:51 GMT
On another note, the parts labeled L1 FORMER SUPPORT, K (top) and K (bottom) FORMER SUPPORT should be installed on the front of the noted formers. This helps keep the formers from bending forward when installing the skins as they are quite close. It makes it a pain to line up the next skin when the former it's supposed to be on is bent into the previously installed skin Thanks! I hope I was right on my guess. I glued that "F1" former in front of the E former, it seemed to match up. I am getting them glued up now.
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Post by Burkeomatic on May 31, 2022 4:17:25 GMT
bwarz the way you put so much time and effort into making these plans work is amazing. Makes me feel like I am in the junior league. The way that tail section went together like a jigsaw puzzle and slid together like butter and is solid as a rock is amazing! My cuts weren't even that great. 2022-05-30_11-13-25 by Burkeomatic, on Flickr Oh, is this how the front former is supposed to go on? I haven't glued it in yet. 2022-05-30_11-30-06 by Burkeomatic, on Flickr
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Post by ratcheeroo on May 31, 2022 12:28:38 GMT
bwarz the way you put so much time and effort into making these plans work is amazing. Makes me feel like I am in the junior league. The way that tail section went together like a jigsaw puzzle and slid together like butter and is solid as a rock is amazing! My cuts weren't even that great. 2022-05-30_11-13-25 by Burkeomatic, on Flickr Oh, is this how the front former is supposed to go on? I haven't glued it in yet. 2022-05-30_11-30-06 by Burkeomatic, on Flickr Nice work going on there.!
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Post by bwarz on May 31, 2022 14:00:44 GMT
bwarz the way you put so much time and effort into making these plans work is amazing. Makes me feel like I am in the junior league. The way that tail section went together like a jigsaw puzzle and slid together like butter and is solid as a rock is amazing! My cuts weren't even that great. 2022-05-30_11-13-25 by Burkeomatic, on Flickr Oh, is this how the front former is supposed to go on? I haven't glued it in yet. 2022-05-30_11-30-06 by Burkeomatic, on Flickr looking good - and thank you! I like to visualize everything as I'm laying it out in Inkscape and I measure the snot out of everything. Even the back former of the Ls has a slightly smaller hole in it (I sometimes annoy myself at having to be that meticulous lol)
Your installation of the front former is correct. I've been installing the ESCs below the power pod for both cooling and to get it as far forward as possible. On the P40E (if I EVER get it done) the big honking intake is fully functional with the ESC set way low into the airpath
On the former H with the cutouts, I left the cutouts in place to I was sure to get the skin on clean, but thinking about it I don't see why you'd have any problems. Don't cut the indents out of the skin until after everything is assembled, and be sure to get enough glue on the tops of those two formers (H and K?) also the sides where it meets the indents. Have the patterns handy and align them to center on the cutouts in the formers and carefully cut them out after the glue is nice and dry. I say carefully because you then take the parts that you cut out and get that concave curve on them and reinstall them. Using clear material for the windows, the frame will cover the seams.
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Post by Burkeomatic on May 31, 2022 14:29:31 GMT
bwarz the way you put so much time and effort into making these plans work is amazing. Makes me feel like I am in the junior league. The way that tail section went together like a jigsaw puzzle and slid together like butter and is solid as a rock is amazing! My cuts weren't even that great. 2022-05-30_11-13-25 by Burkeomatic, on Flickr Oh, is this how the front former is supposed to go on? I haven't glued it in yet. 2022-05-30_11-30-06 by Burkeomatic, on Flickr looking good - and thank you! I like to visualize everything as I'm laying it out in Inkscape and I measure the snot out of everything. Even the back former of the Ls has a slightly smaller hole in it (I sometimes annoy myself at having to be that meticulous lol)
Your installation of the front former is correct. I've been installing the ESCs below the power pod for both cooling and to get it as far forward as possible. On the P40E (if I EVER get it done) the big honking intake is fully functional with the ESC set way low into the airpath
On the former H with the cutouts, I left the cutouts in place to I was sure to get the skin on clean, but thinking about it I don't see why you'd have any problems. Don't cut the indents out of the skin until after everything is assembled, and be sure to get enough glue on the tops of those two formers (H and K?) also the sides where it meets the indents. Have the patterns handy and align them to center on the cutouts in the formers and carefully cut them out after the glue is nice and dry. I say carefully because you then take the parts that you cut out and get that concave curve on them and reinstall them. Using clear material for the windows, the frame will cover the seams.
Thanks, that is the way it made sense to me. For the top on the formers, that is good to know. I will ensure those are good and glued, probably using clear GG, white would foam and make cutting out the side pieces difficult. and possibly destroy them in the event I don't decide to do the clear, though I probably will. A question for the rear "L" formers. The holes marked for the control rods are above the body. Are the control rods supposed to pass through that top hole I have yet to cut out and go through like that? I am assuming that I want to get the V and H stabs put on and servos mounted before doing skins, correct?
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Post by bwarz on May 31, 2022 15:53:46 GMT
looking good - and thank you! I like to visualize everything as I'm laying it out in Inkscape and I measure the snot out of everything. Even the back former of the Ls has a slightly smaller hole in it (I sometimes annoy myself at having to be that meticulous lol) Your installation of the front former is correct. I've been installing the ESCs below the power pod for both cooling and to get it as far forward as possible. On the P40E (if I EVER get it done) the big honking intake is fully functional with the ESC set way low into the airpath On the former H with the cutouts, I left the cutouts in place to I was sure to get the skin on clean, but thinking about it I don't see why you'd have any problems. Don't cut the indents out of the skin until after everything is assembled, and be sure to get enough glue on the tops of those two formers (H and K?) also the sides where it meets the indents. Have the patterns handy and align them to center on the cutouts in the formers and carefully cut them out after the glue is nice and dry. I say carefully because you then take the parts that you cut out and get that concave curve on them and reinstall them. Using clear material for the windows, the frame will cover the seams.
Thanks, that is the way it made sense to me. For the top on the formers, that is good to know. I will ensure those are good and glued, probably using clear GG, white would foam and make cutting out the side pieces difficult. and possibly destroy them in the event I don't decide to do the clear, though I probably will. A question for the rear "L" formers. The holes marked for the control rods are above the body. Are the control rods supposed to pass through that top hole I have yet to cut out and go through like that? I am assuming that I want to get the V and H stabs put on and servos mounted before doing skins, correct? I always build so electronics go in when it's all done. The benefit of where I put the servos lol. I used the stir sticks (btw got a box of 500 at a local food service store for like $3) to get a clean path for the pushrods. Let me see if I have some video of that assembly. Basically get the formers in, route the drink straws leaving a few inches out the back to trim after skins are on. leave about an inch at the servo tray side too. The straws rout through a square cutout in the top of the box core (did I put that on the plans? ) If not I'll send a pic when I get home of the P40 core...
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Post by Burkeomatic on May 31, 2022 18:07:23 GMT
Thanks, that is the way it made sense to me. For the top on the formers, that is good to know. I will ensure those are good and glued, probably using clear GG, white would foam and make cutting out the side pieces difficult. and possibly destroy them in the event I don't decide to do the clear, though I probably will. A question for the rear "L" formers. The holes marked for the control rods are above the body. Are the control rods supposed to pass through that top hole I have yet to cut out and go through like that? I am assuming that I want to get the V and H stabs put on and servos mounted before doing skins, correct? I always build so electronics go in when it's all done. The benefit of where I put the servos lol. I used the stir sticks (btw got a box of 500 at a local food service store for like $3) to get a clean path for the pushrods. Let me see if I have some video of that assembly. Basically get the formers in, route the drink straws leaving a few inches out the back to trim after skins are on. leave about an inch at the servo tray side too. The straws rout through a square cutout in the top of the box core (did I put that on the plans? ) If not I'll send a pic when I get home of the P40 core... Ok, I do the stir sticks too. Yeah, there is a place to cut out there. I just for whatever reason forgot to. I was noticing last night I had it marked to cut out, I just missed it when I cut the other stuff out.
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Post by bwarz on May 31, 2022 19:24:48 GMT
I'm sorta remembering what I did, the stir straws are longer so you can situate the HSTAB under them easily. I might be recalling the BF109 where the rear-most skin is actually a full wrap and I needed the excess length on the straws to fish them through the holes in the skin...
Don't cut them off until you have everything assembled. I even took small pieces of DTFB and formed a 'tooth' that allowed a taper form the vert to the horizontal and slid nice and snug up under the straw. Then I trim the straw off flush with everything.
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Post by Burkeomatic on Jun 5, 2022 5:03:02 GMT
I'm sorta remembering what I did, the stir straws are longer so you can situate the HSTAB under them easily. I might be recalling the BF109 where the rear-most skin is actually a full wrap and I needed the excess length on the straws to fish them through the holes in the skin...
Don't cut them off until you have everything assembled. I even took small pieces of DTFB and formed a 'tooth' that allowed a taper form the vert to the horizontal and slid nice and snug up under the straw. Then I trim the straw off flush with everything.
Sweet, I am going to start cutting skins after I get the straws and servo rods routed. I kind of took some time off on this to get caught up on the mig. I spent most of the weekend trying to dial in my dart (still something I need to fix on that). I got the V and H stabs mounted. It slid together like butter of course. I made a boo boo and put a little crease in the h stab being a sasquach, but it is right next to the rudder, no one will know. 2022-06-04_11-51-37 by Burkeomatic, on Flickr I've seen some cool liveries for this, and I am not sure what I am going to do yet. While I did find a discount can of silver for $3, I am digging some of the foreign olive drab ones. Specifically the Finnish one. No one knows that those swastikas on there aren't Nazi related..... Honestly, what I am trying to avoid at this point, is cutting and piecing together more plans and skins, but I have ran out of parts....dammit. Better suck it up buttercup.
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Post by ratcheeroo on Jun 5, 2022 14:42:33 GMT
I'm sorta remembering what I did, the stir straws are longer so you can situate the HSTAB under them easily. I might be recalling the BF109 where the rear-most skin is actually a full wrap and I needed the excess length on the straws to fish them through the holes in the skin...
Don't cut them off until you have everything assembled. I even took small pieces of DTFB and formed a 'tooth' that allowed a taper form the vert to the horizontal and slid nice and snug up under the straw. Then I trim the straw off flush with everything.
Sweet, I am going to start cutting skins after I get the straws and servo rods routed. I kind of took some time off on this to get caught up on the mig. I spent most of the weekend trying to dial in my dart (still something I need to fix on that). I got the V and H stabs mounted. It slid together like butter of course. I made a boo boo and put a little crease in the h stab being a sasquach, but it is right next to the rudder, no one will know. 2022-06-04_11-51-37 by Burkeomatic, on Flickr I've seen some cool liveries for this, and I am not sure what I am going to do yet. While I did find a discount can of silver for $3, I am digging some of the foreign olive drab ones. Specifically the Finnish one. No one knows that those swastikas on there aren't Nazi related..... Honestly, what I am trying to avoid at this point, is cutting and piecing together more plans and skins, but I have ran out of parts....dammit. Better suck it up buttercup. Looking awesome! Really liking that color scheme as well, really nice!
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